Less renowned than the iconic ruins of downtown Athens, the ancient remnants scattered across modern Piraeus tell a fascinating story of the city’s rich past. In a landmark decision in April 2019, Greece’s Central Archaeological Council designated the entire section of Piraeus within its ancient walls as an archaeological site—an unprecedented move, even without considering its political and commercial implications.

Recent excavations linked to the expansion of Athens’ Metro Line 3 and the tramway extension to Piraeus have further highlighted the historical significance of this port city. As the naval base of ancient Athens, Piraeus holds immense historical weight, making its elevated archaeological status less surprising and more of a long-overdue recognition.

Piraeus is an extraordinary archaeological palimpsest, shaped and sustained by the Mediterranean’s influence. The city’s hidden ruins—fragmented walls, broken columns, and forgotten remnants—peek through the urban sprawl, often overshadowed by towering modern apartment blocks. Unlike the postcard-perfect ruins of Athens, these scattered vestiges require imagination and a keen eye to reconstruct the grandeur of a bygone era.

While many ancient sites have succumbed to modern development—such as the Dionysian Theater once standing behind Microlimano Harbor—several others have survived, preserved more by neglect than by design. Beneath the streets lies an unseen subterranean city. Archaeologist George Peppas, from the Ephorate of Antiquities of West Attica, Piraeus, and the Islands, notes that over 700 cisterns, wells, and tunnels, primarily from the fourth and third centuries BCE, have been identified. He describes Piraeus as a “city beneath a city,” akin to Athens and Thessaloniki, where history extends thousands of years underground.

The clandestine city below has always been known to archaeologists. Some of its most remarkable discoveries, such as the bronze statues of Athena and Apollo now housed in the Piraeus Archaeological Museum, were unearthed accidentally in 1959 by construction workers. The Roman general Sulla’s brutal siege of 87-86 BCE left much of Piraeus in ruins, forcing residents to conceal their valuables—pottery, household items, and even statues—in wells and cisterns to prevent them from falling into enemy hands. Today, these artifacts continue to surface, revealing the depth and breadth of Piraeus’ buried treasures.

Exploring the ruins of Piraeus is a different experience from that of Athens. According to Peppas, ancient sources provide less precise information about Piraeus, making it more challenging to identify historical sites. Unlike Athens, where references from Pausanias and Strabo offer clear guidance, Piraeus remains an archaeological puzzle. The locations of key structures such as the ancient agora and the Temple of Zeus Soter remain debated, with the latter likened to an elusive “white rabbit” that archaeologists are still chasing.

Despite its fragmented archaeological landscape, Piraeus offers more for the modern explorer than meets the eye. The city’s very foundation was meticulously planned. Following the Athenians’ victory over the Persians at Salamis, the fortified harbor of Piraeus was designed with strategic intent. The Long Walls connected Athens to its naval stronghold, and Hippodamus of Miletus, a pioneering urban planner, was tasked with designing Piraeus’ layout in the 440s BCE. The result was a structured city with designated roads, public spaces, an agora, and residential quarters, built with resilience in mind.

Recent excavations, particularly those linked to the tram expansion, have further refined our understanding of the Hippodamian grid. By integrating Geographic Information Systems (GIS), archaeologists can now map out the classical city with unprecedented accuracy.

Yet, for all the advances in technology, Piraeus retains an enigmatic allure. The “stone ghosts” of the city evoke a poetic contrast between past and present, civilization and nature. As a curator at the J. Paul Getty Museum in California once remarked, ruins encapsulate the tension between what is lost and what remains.

Though often overlooked in the rush to catch a ferry, Piraeus’ ancient sites stand as silent witnesses to its maritime and historical legacy. The following guide highlights key locations where visitors can glimpse the hidden history of this mythic port city.